A entrance to Angkor Wat

December 2024 Newsletter – Bangkok and Siem Reap

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Hello, and Happy New Year! I hope you had a memorable holiday season and are excited for 2025.

Steve and I spent the first three weeks of December in Bangkok, Thailand. Even though Buddhism is the prevailing religion, the city was teeming with Christmas décor.

A storefront decorated for Christmas
Not a scene you would expect in Thailand

Just a few days before Christmas, we moved on to Siem Reap, Cambodia. While we missed spending Christmas with our daughters, we’re looking forward to seeing them this spring.

What We’ve Been Doing

Finishing Our Time in Bangkok

Having already visited many of Bangkok’s top attractions in November (you can catch up on that in our November newsletter), we opted for a more laid-back December. Here’s a glimpse of what we did:

Concert Fun: We attended a concert celebrating a local hospital’s anniversary. Before the performances, there was some amusing line dancing to country hits like “Achy, Breaky Heart.”

SeaLife & Wax Adventures: We spent an afternoon at SeaLife Ocean World Aquarium and ended up at Madame Tussauds—a spontaneous stop that turned out to be more fascinating than expected.

Day Tour Adventures: We joined a day tour to a railway market (underwhelming compared to Hanoi’s Train Street), a floating market (very cool—and home to the second-best sweet and sour chicken I’ve ever had), and the Dragon Temple (touristy and a bit of a letdown).

Boats filled with goods
A fruit vendor at the floating market
A tall pink building with a snake wrapped around it
The 17-storey Dragon Temple; unfortunately you can’t see the giant dragon head, but it is there

Condom Canteen: Cabbages and Condoms is easily one of the most unique restaurants we’ve ever visited. The quirky condom-themed décor sets the tone, and the cheeky reassurance that “our food won’t cause pregnancy” adds a humorous touch. Instead of mints, guests can take a condom as a parting gift. But there’s more to this restaurant than its novelty—it’s dedicated to promoting condoms, family planning, and AIDS awareness, making it a dining experience with a meaningful purpose.

A restaurant terrace with tables covered with plaid tablecloths and lights covered in large condoms
Even the lights are protected at Cabbages and Condoms

Silk and Mystery: I explored the Jim Thompson House Museum, the former home of the American businessman who transformed Bangkok’s silk industry. His home is a fascinating mix of traditional Thai architecture, pieced together from old houses, with subtle American touches added for convenience. While his silk business flourished, his story took a mysterious turn when he vanished in Malaysia in 1967. Decades later, his disappearance remains unsolved.

A small wooden temple with flower offerings
A spirit house at the museum – it honors the spirits of the land the house was built on

Travel Woes: Both zippers on my American Tourister luggage broke after just 18 months. Since the warranty process would take up to 60 days, an impractical timeline for a nomad, I replaced them with this unique set I’m thrilled about.

Two suitcases in front of an ornate chair
This is one souvenir that will get plenty of use

As much as many travelers adore Thailand, I was relieved to move on. While we appreciated Bangkok’s impressive malls and efficient metro system, the country lacked many things we love: lush gardens, elegant architecture (except for the exquisite wats), street art, and hiking opportunities. The oppressive heat made hikes and even casual walks challenging.

Steve enjoyed Thailand more than I did, but he was ready to move on after nine and a half weeks there.

Thai food was another struggle for me. While I appreciated the clear labeling of spicy dishes, the non-spicy options were bland. It’s as if the only “flavor” in Thai food is spice. A highlight was Bibimbab, a Korean restaurant serving delicious, non-spicy fare.

Siem Reap: A Breath of Fresh Air

Siem Reap won me over immediately. Its compact size and friendly atmosphere make getting around effortless, and the variety of activities kept us engaged. English is widely spoken here—even by tuk-tuk drivers!

Here’s what we explored in Siem Reap:

Angkor National Museum: This museum was a fantastic introduction to Angkor Wat, the Angkor Archaeological Park, and Khmer history.

Angkor Archaeological Park: We visited four of the most popular temples, including the iconic Angkor Wat. The park is home to dozens of temples.

A man standing among the roots of a large tree
Steve at the Ta Prohn Temple – aka the Tomb Raider Temple

Apopo Demonstration: We learned about the African Giant Pouched Rats trained to detect land mines. These remarkable animals are light enough to avoid triggering the mines, and none have been harmed in their work. I even got to hold one!

A woman holding a large rat
Me with one of the rats

Coco Cat Café: There’s nothing like some kitty cuddle time.

A woman holding a kitten with two other kittens nearby
I’m in Heaven

Christmas Brunch: Our nod to Christmas was a decadent feast at the luxurious Anantara Angkor Resort & Spa.

Botanical Strolls & Fireworks: We wandered through Angkor Botanical Gardens and welcomed the new year with fireworks viewed from our hotel balcony.

Visa Adventures: Securing our Vietnam visas was far more complicated than when we did it in September, with the revamped website causing unnecessary delays.

Mojo’s Moments

Mojo seems just as smitten with Siem Reap as I am! He’s loving the cooler weather, the tuk-tuk rides with their refreshing breezes, and, of course, the hotel’s unbeatable happy hour—50% off all drinks. Who knew happy hour could get even better?

A plate of food, a glass of wine, and a toy hedgehog
Christmas brunch
A toy hedgehog on a pillared ledge
Break time at Angkor Wat
A toy hedgehog sitting on a deer statue
Soaking in that Thai culture

On the Website

Now that the Wind and Whim makeover is pretty much done, I’ve resumed publishing new posts. In December, I published our November newsletter and a guide on What You Need to Know About Elephant Sanctuaries in Thailand, inspired by our visit in November.

Stay tuned for more posts in January—there’s no shortage of ideas!

P.S. A kind, anonymous supporter bought me three coffees. Your gestures, whether it’s a comment or a coffee, mean the world to me. (Full transparency: coffee money may occasionally fund a beer or margarita!)

Affiliate of the Month: Traveling Mailbox

How do we manage our mail while traveling full-time? With Traveling Mailbox. It has been our go-to since 2018. They notify us when mail arrives, let us view it online, and offer handy services like mail forwarding and check deposits.

Learn more here.

Travel Fact

In 2024, Bangkok topped the charts with 32.4 million international arrivals, making it the most visited city in the world.

Looking Back

Amid global stress and the recent U.S. elections, who couldn’t use a little pampering? Check out this month’s throwback post about Therme Bucuresti, a serene and luxurious escape in Bucharest, Romania.

What’s Next?

With our Vietnam visas sorted, we’re off to Da Nang and Hoi An! We’ll celebrate Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, in Hoi An on January 29th—a second New Year’s celebration for us after Cambodia’s January 1st festivities.

Until Next Time

That’s all for our December update. Steve and I wish you an amazing 2025 filled with adventure and joy.

Happy traveling,
Linda

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