Looking Back: Beginnings on the Road (and Sea)
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While cleaning up my files, I ran across memories from the beginning of our full-time travels. I thought it would be fun to see where we were seven years ago.
From April through July 2018, we spent two weeks on a cruise ship and three months in three cities in Western Europe.
In this look back, I highlight what was great, what wasn’t, and what surprised us. I also threw in a few updates. I hope you enjoy this trip down memory lane as much as I enjoyed revisiting it.
Cruise from Florida to Barcelona
Does two weeks on a cruise ship sound like heaven or hell to you? For us, it was absolute bliss. After two and a half years of prepping to ditch our old life and dive into full-time travel, those two relaxing weeks at sea were the perfect soft launch into freedom. No decisions, no to-do lists—just endless food, entertainment, and unlimited drinks (soft and hard). What’s not to love?
We sailed on the Norwegian Epic, and surprisingly, it wasn’t just retirees looking for their last hurrah. People of all ages were onboard. With just five ports of call and five sea days in a row, you might think we got bored. Nope. There was always something happening on the Epic.
We splurged on a balcony cabin but we didn’t use it enough to justify the cost. If (when) we cruise again, we’ll probably go for an inside cabin.
Cruise Highlights
Funchal, Madeira, Portugal
We rode a wicker toboggan down the streets of Funchal. It was steered by two men in straw hats and topped out at 24 mph (40 km/h). A little scary and a lot of fun. Then we relaxed with a stroll through the Madeira Botanical Garden.
Cadiz, Spain
On our stop in Cadiz, we opted for an inland trip to Seville. The highlights included visiting the Real Alcázar of Seville, a royal palace still used by Spain’s royal family, and my first, but not my last, sangria in Spain.
Gibraltar
It turns out that Gibraltar is not just a big rock. We toured St. Michael’s Cave, one of at least 150 caves in Gibraltar. It attracts one million visitors a year. Colorful lights accentuate the rock formations and the cave is so big there is a 600-person auditorium inside.
We also hung out with some cheeky Barbary macaques.
Fun fact: the Gibraltar Airport is the only one in the world whose runway crosses a road. The road must be closed every time a plane takes off or lands.
Shipboard Fun and Games
We competed in the Newlywed Game which included one real newlywed couple, us, and a couple married longer than us. We had to audition for our spot by pretending to be Tarzan and Jane. I was a pitiful Jane, but Steve sealed the deal by tossing me over his shoulder, letting out a full-on Tarzan yell, and twirling us around the stage.
We didn’t win, but we had a blast and we got to relive it daily as it was broadcast over the ship’s TV for the rest of the cruise.
Bermuda Bust
I was looking forward to Bermuda, but it turned into an absolute bust. We docked at the Royal Navy Dockyard on a rainy day. Because of the bad weather, we decided to forego sightseeing and take care of some business related to selling our house.
We went to a nearby restaurant to use their WiFi. Unfortunately, a lot of people had the same idea so the restaurant filled up fast and the WiFi was useless.
Updates
Our second Transatlantic cruise was in December 2023 from Civitavecchia (Rome) to New York City on the Norwegian Gem. We chose an inside cabin, and it was just fine. Let’s be honest, we’re only in there to sleep.
Our second crossing also included a stop in Bermuda, but a storm prevented that. We were disappointed, but at least we hadn’t planned to get married there, like one couple on the ship. Luckily for them, the crew was able to arrange an onboard ceremony.
We’re booked for a 19-night Transatlantic cruise in November 2025 from Barcelona to Miami. We’ll be sailing with a group of slow travelers.
Barcelona, Spain – Our First City
We got off to a slow start. We were total newbies at this whole world-traveler thing. No tour guide, no hand-holding, just us. We were uncertain about the language, the metro, and the layout of the city.
That first week, our “exploring” looked a lot like tiptoeing. One day we made it down the street. The next, around the block. A few days later, we boldly wandered several blocks away. Weren’t we the great adventurers?
Eventually, our training wheels came off, and we started settling into our new role as semi-capable globetrotters. Confidence crept in, and suddenly we weren’t just surviving, we were actually sightseeing.
We had heard many good things about Barcelona and were looking forward to loving the city. We enjoyed the sights, particularly the architecture and street art, but we didn’t love the city.
Were our expectations too high? Were there too many unfriendly people? Did listening to the constant street noise get old fast? Probably a little of all of these things. It did teach us that you can’t put too much stock in other people’s likes and dislikes. We saw this again in Sofia, Bulgaria. Many websites said it wasn’t worth a visit, but we disagree.
What we loved about Barcelona
The architecture, especially the works of Antonio Gaudi, like Parc Guell and Casa Mila, dazzled us. His unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia, ruined us for all other churches.
My favorite place was the little-known Labyrinth de la Horta, a public park that was once a private residence. As the name suggests it includes a labyrinth. There are so many sections to the property, and each one is a delight. We even came across a wild boar. The park was a welcome break from the crowded tourist attractions.
Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau’s art nouveau architecture charmed us. This stunning complex of 27 buildings served as a hospital until 2009. These days, it’s a museum where you can explore ten of the beautifully restored pavilions.
Designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner and completed in 1930, the layout reflects the belief that healing happens best in a beautiful, nature-filled setting. Turns out good architecture might just be the best medicine.
During our stay, we toured the nearby cities of Tarragona and Sitges. Tarragona intrigued us with its impressive Roman ruins. Sitges stole our hearts with its laid-back beachfront charm and easygoing vibe despite the rainy weather.
We were impressed enough to return on our own on a sunny day.
What we didn’t love about Barcelona
The crowds. We are glad we experienced Barcelona but aren’t in a hurry to go back. Its popularity with tourists has led to so much overcrowding that the city has passed a law that forbids the building of new hotels even if they are replacing existing ones to curb the tourist influx.
The people. The other thing that struck us was that the people were not friendly. We shopped at the same supermarket nearly every day and never got a smile out of the cashiers. We did not take this personally. Even as we watched the crowds from our balcony we did not see many smiles. Perhaps it was the crowds, the high cost of living, the political uncertainty related to the move for Catalan independence (a contentious issue at the time), or some combination of these, that affected the mood of the residents.
Curious about Barcelona? Don’t miss our post, “6 Things You Should Know Before Visiting Barcelona”.
Updates
We had a stop in Barcelona during our second cruise, so we took the opportunity to tour Casa Batllo, one of Gaudi’s masterpieces. It lived up to his unique style, but I prefer Casa Mila.
We will be in Barcelona for the third time when we board our ship in October. Barcelona continues to struggle with overtourism and residents have been known to protest, including squirting tourists with water pistols. Given that, we will probably keep our sightseeing to a minimum.
Paris
Our accommodations in Paris were inexpensive (read cheap) and it showed. Our tiny rental was about 100 square feet and didn’t even have a bathroom door, only a curtain! We had originally booked for two months but ended up staying for one month because of this.
What we loved about Paris
It’s Paris. Yes, it’s crowded, it’s expensive, and you’re never far from the smell of urine. But in my opinion, no city can beat that Parisian vibe.
The museums. Paris boasts incredible museums. The Louvre is indeed a marvel, but the more intimate Musee D’Orsay, the home of the largest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist work in the world, is my favorite. It is in a former train station with exquisite Beaux-Arts architecture.
Discover why Musée d’Orsay is our favorite Paris museum in our post “ From Trains to Treasures: Musée d’Orsay Magic”.
Versailles. While not in Paris, it is close enough for a day trip. We took two. One was a bike tour that opened our eyes to the vast area the ground covers. In addition to the grandiose main palace, there are gardens, walking and biking paths, stand-alone restaurants, two chateaus, and a hamlet.
Get the full story on the Estate of Versailles in our post, “More Than a Palace: The Magnificent Estate of Versailles”.
The monuments. I love walking down the street and seeing elaborate sculptures that would be at home in the Louvre. Talk about street art!
Cemetery Montmartre. Pere Lachaise Cemetery makes more must-see lists than Cemetery Montmartre. We visited both, and while Pere Lachaise is worth a visit, I prefer Montmartre. It is in the artistic area of Paris and that is reflected in the graves. It is also built on many levels and part of it is under a road.
Find out why Cemetery Montmartre deserves a spot on your Paris itinerary in our post: “Cemetery Montmartre: Where the Dead Get the Best Views”.
The people. Yes, you read that right. We found the people in Paris to be friendly. Locals stepped up several times to help with directions or translations. The pharmacist at the pharmacy we frequented went out of his way to assist us and even gave us small gifts.
What we didn’t love about Paris
The food. You might equate Paris with fine cuisine, but the average restaurant food is nothing special. It is also expensive by U.S. standards. We balked at paying 19 euro for a hamburger plate and ate at home a lot. One of our favorite meals was supermarket roasted chicken with potatoes that had been cooked in the chicken drippings.
The cost. Not much to say here. We all know Paris ain’t cheap (except for our apartment).
The smell. No, not French perfume. I’m talking about the pervasive smell of urine. It is so bad that the city has begun putting public urinals on the street. Great for the guys, but what about the gals?
An eyeopener in Paris
A few minutes from our apartment, along the bank of the Saint Martin Canal, were a few hundred tents. They housed male African migrants. The tents and basic supplies had been donated by an aid group. These men did not cause any trouble. People were freely walking next to their campsite without any harassment.
At one point representatives came in and gathered the men around to tell them they were being taken somewhere else. They all listened quietly. Then we watched in horror as the city sent in bulldozers to destroy all the tents.
Update
The Cathedral of Notre Dame was badly damaged by fire in April 2019 (less than one year after we saw it). The restoration work related to the fire was completed in December 2024.
Strasbourg, France (Grand Ile)
If you find yourself in a fairyland where half-timbered houses overlook canals and rivers and colorful flowers adorn bridges and balconies, you might be in Strasbourg, France. The city center, called the Grand Ile, was the first city center to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Strasbourg sits on the Rhine River with Germany to the east. Because of its location, it has been under both French and German rule many times.
We were fortunate to get an apartment just a few minutes walk from the main square. From there we could easily reach the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Strasbourg and the Vauban Dam. Several museums are also in the city center including the Museum of Beaux Arts and Oeuvre Notre-Dame Museum.
What we loved about Strasbourg
Bike rides. Bikes are everywhere in Strasbourg. We rented ours for the month. It wasn’t always easy riding through the crowds in the city center, but the country was only a short, well-marked, ride away.
World Cup win. When France beat Croatia in the final game of the World Cup the main square in the city center filled with revelers. Even though we aren’t football (soccer for you Americans) fans, we loved being part of the festivities with our daughter Laura and a friend.
The vibe. This city is alive!
What we didn’t love about Strasbourg
The cost. We thought it would be less expensive than Paris, but it wasn’t. We found one restaurant where the food cost half of what it did in nearby restaurants. We ate there a lot.
Until Next Time
I hope you enjoyed this look back at our first three months of full-time travel as much as I enjoyed reliving the memories. Steve and I would love to hear about your adventures in these cities.
Since we took the plunge seven years ago, we rode out the pandemic in Budapest, been to 118 cities in 31 countries, and soaked in some of the most breathtaking sights this planet has to offer. Along the way, we’ve met incredible people from every corner of the globe and discovered a lot about ourselves.
No matter how far we go, these early adventures will always hold a special place in my heart because they were the beginning of something unforgettable.
Happy traveling,
Linda
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