Six Weeks in Belgrade, Serbia
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Steve and I spent six weeks in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, in June and July of 2025.
Why would anyone spend six weeks in Belgrade, you ask?
We had several reasons:
1. We needed to leave the Schengen Area for at least 90 days. With more countries joining it and shrinking our list of options, Serbia stood out as one of the places we could go in Europe that we hadn’t already been to.
2. After ten weeks in Germany, including two with our daughters, it was time to give our wallet a much-needed breather. You can read about that in our May 2025 recap.
3. We originally planned to spend four weeks in Belgrade, four weeks in Subotica (also in Serbia), and four weeks in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Shortly after arriving in Belgrade, our Subotica accommodations were cancelled. The other options were less than thrilling, and honestly, we were a little fried after our time in Germany. So, we decided to skip Subotica and divide those weeks between Belgrade and Sarajevo. Thankfully, our Airbnbs in both cities had availability, so extending our stays was easy.
4. We’ve visited over a dozen Balkan cities and enjoyed every one, so we figured, why not give Belgrade a try?
All money is in U.S. dollars unless otherwise stated.
What We Liked About Belgrade
Free public transportation – Yes, you read that right. Buses and trams in Belgrade are free. Not only did it save us money, but it also made hopping around the city a breeze. Rush hour got a little sardine-y, but no worse than in other cities.
Great restaurant food – We had some delicious meals at good prices, though not as low as we expected. Favorites included the pizza and salads at Bromacvetam (I couldn’t get enough of their shopska salad) and the traditional grill at Walter BBQ.
Our Airbnb – We had a spacious and comfortable one-bedroom apartment on a pedestrian-only street in the city center. It was a three-minute walk to a supermarket.
Walkability – Most places were within a 15-minute walk. When they weren’t, the free buses came to the rescue.
Good, affordable healthcare – I needed to see a doctor for a nagging cough. On top of that, it was time for our semi-annual bloodwork and dental cleanings. We got great care at Euromedik.
Steve and I also needed to replace our custom shoe inserts. We found a place called Rudo and, to our surprise, got exactly what we needed quickly without breaking the bank.
You can read about these healthcare experiences in our post, ”Medical Care in Belgrade: Affordable, Easy, and Pleasant.”
Affordable prescription medication – We each needed some medicine refills, and when we saw the prices, we decided to stock up. The only downside was that the pharmacies only stock a small supply, so we ended up doing a pharmacy crawl (not nearly as fun as a pub crawl). We probably could have ordered them, but in true fashion, we left it for the end of our stay.
What We Didn’t Like About Belgrade
High grocery prices – One reason we chose Belgrade was the assumption that it would be budget-friendly. We were more than a little surprised when grocery prices turned out to be on par with Germany. U.S. travelers might still find them reasonable, but it wasn’t the bargain we expected.
Even non-grocery items were expensive. We loved DM stores in Germany for their low prices and wide selection of personal care and cleaning products. In Belgrade, their prices were higher and the shelves less inspiring.
Limited grocery selection – The supermarkets left us underwhelmed. Even allowing for cultural differences, the variety was pretty sparse. One type of salad dressing? Really? We did manage to find Tabasco sauce, which felt like a small victory until we saw the $6 price tag.
The Museums – Belgrade’s museums didn’t measure up to what we saw in other Balkan countries.
How We Spent Our Time
Relaxing
When we arrived in Belgrade, Steve and I both felt pretty wrung out. Our minds and hearts are still youthful (and the doctors say we’re in great shape), but we’ve started to notice that we don’t bounce back quite as fast. So, we listened to our bodies, took things slowly, and embraced the magic of afternoon naps.
Planning
Figuring out our next moves turned into a full-time job. We settled on a four-week stay in Banja Luka, Bosnia and Herzegovina. Then came the rabbit hole: Versailles? Coastal Croatia? Pet sitting in the U.K.?
After many hours of exploring our options, we finally settled on a three-week pet sit in Chippenham, England, not far from Bath, followed by three weeks on the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Then we set sail for the U.S. to spend the holidays with our daughters. Decision fatigue is real.
Grieving
In June, Steve’s only sister, Barbara, passed away in Buffalo, N.Y. He chose not to travel back for the funeral. We’re grateful we spent time with her during our visit there in February 2024.
Sightseeing
Our favorites in Belgrade were the Church of St. Sava (Serbian Orthodox), the Belgrade Fortress, and the quirky Museum of the Nineties, which dives into the messy aftermath of Yugoslavia’s breakup.
You can read about all the things we did and what we thought about them (with tons of photos) in our detailed post “Is Belgrade a Good Choice for a Balkan City Break?”
Would We Recommend Belgrade?
No. Steve and I have been to over a dozen Balkan cities, and Belgrade impressed us the least. But if you need a break from the Schengen Area or some top-notch medical care at bargain prices, it might be worth a stop.
Until Next Time
We’re just days away from wrapping up our six-week stay in Sarajevo, so the next update should be heading your way soon (unless the lazies strike again).
In the meantime, drop us a comment and share your summer adventures. And if you’ve been to Belgrade, did it win your heart, or are you in our camp on this one?
Happy traveling,
Linda
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